Friday, October 22, 2021

into thin air ch 1 through seven

ch 1 pg 6
so our narrator is at the summit if mount everest and i gues hes done with that cause theyre trying to go down and hes taking pictures and after the fact looking at the pictures he can see a storm coming.  but at the time, his oxygen starved brain didnt see it.  so hes trying to go down and theres one narrow spot with one rope and he has to stop because people are coming up that rope.  so hes a little pissed that he has to wait for these people to get up and all the while hes losing brain cells because of the lack of oxygen.

ch 2 pg 13

A few stories of the early attempts at climbing Everest in the 1950s and 60s in this chapter.  the one that matters most to our author Jon Krakauer is about a 1963 expedition that included Willi Unsoeld from Oregon.  Hey, i'm from Oregon.  awesome, way to go Willi.  You got my attention Jon, tell me more about Willi.  Willi lived in Corvallis and at the time, so did Jon.  Another level, Jon's dad and Willi were friends.  Jon played with Willi's kids.  leanring this local comnection makes me care about Jon a lot more.

Jon is an accomplished climber.  He's climbed mountains all over the world.  Many that are considered to be more difficult than Everest.  He's become a bit of an accomplished writer and was invited in 1995 to come to Everest base camp to do a story about how crazy overly commercialized Everest has become.  He decided je couldn't just go to base camp.  if he's flying across the world to see Everest, hes gomna climb it.  So he went in 1996.

ch 3 pg 29
Jon's guide is a guy from New Zealand named Rob Hall.  He's very accomplished.  hes done this a lot.  so much so that no less a man than Sir Edmund Hillary himself criticized Rob for being a significant part of the Everest over commercialization.  Jon is getting uneasy.  he likes Rob and another guy in the party named Doug, but the group is large and of varied backgrounds and experience levels.  Previously Jon has really only ever done climbs like this with other very experienced climbers, most of whom he already knew.  So this is a really different sort of deal for Jon.

ch 4 pg 41
this chapter is all about the elevation aclimatizing walk climbers make as they slowly go from an elevation of 9,000 feet at the top of the Himalayan platue to basecamp at 20,000 feet.  they only walk a few hours a day because it take A Lot more energy to do anything when you're a couple miles up from sea level.  theres a village everyone stops at 16,000 feet.  usually its pretty relaxed.  but this year it was crazy poop in the streets crowded.  the snow was thicker than ussual due to a cool spring.  So it is taking a lot longer to get from there to base camp and so all these people that would  normally habe made it up to basecamp by now are stuck in this tiny village.  

ch 5 pg 59
The sherpa is gonna be ok.  everyone else gets to leave the crazy overcrowded village and go to base camp at 17,600 feet.  but the village has done a lot of damage to the crew.  lots of them are leaking out of both ends.  Jon has a nonstop cough he got from the dung fireplace.  they're a mess.  but you spend a lot of time at basecamp getting aclimatized to the elevation.  elevation even at base camp is higher than Jon has ever climbed.

ch 6 pg 75
the key to aclimitizing to the altitude is you do a lot of climbing up a few thousand feet from base camp and then back down again over and over again.  the hardest part is the ice fall.  it can be very unpridictable whether or not the ground beneath you is going to be solid or not.  so the system is that one team does it first and then once theyve established the safe route for the season all the other teams pay them to use their route.

ch 7 pg 89

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